Post by Teh Man! on Mar 17, 2006 14:15:14 GMT -5
From Xenocron-"I haven't done a decent write-up in a while and for some reason I felt extremely motivated so I whipped out the digi-cam and decided to do a little 'how-to' as it pertains to the ECU I use to tune my own and local NJ customers who want a nice street tune. I get a lot of these types of questions from customers on the regular.
I started with a stock P72 and chipped it using one of my DIY ECU Chipping Kits
I added a little extra to my ECU in that I use the little two prong headers with jumper covers instead of just making use of left over resistor parts. This allows me to easily switch J1 and J12 depending on if I want to run the ECU in stock form or if I prefer to datalog with Uberdata or Crome.
For J1, most people add a switch, IMO they are bulky and expensive ($2) and you have to run wires and there is always the odd chance your ECU gets bumped and your chipped ECU turns into a stock ECU and all chaos breaks loose. I use this:
You just have to bend the legs out slightly and it fits nicely in the J1 spot.
This also works well for the J12 spot on the OBD1 ECUs. For your Uberdata users, you leave J12 in tact as UD doesnt take advantage of full duplex datalogging like Crome, ECU Control and I'm sure Hondata and Neptune. Again, adding these two prong jumpers makes it easy to switch back and forth without actually installing a switch. Here are a few more pics:
You can easily see how compact and practical these little jumpers are.
In the above picture you can see that I am using a 3M Zif Socket. It is a screw down type and fits the connection of the Moates Ostrich much more easily and securely than the Aries Blue ZIF sockets. If you are using an Ostrich to do your tuning with, I highly recommend this ZIF socket.
For dataloging, I offer 3 types of cables/connections. Personally, I like my USB Datalogging Board. It is small as well (has some cool little LEDs) and fits nicely inside the ECU if you dremel out a spot for it in the case. To secure it inside, I used some male and female velcro. Female velcro is attached to the bottom side of the USB board and the male side is stuck to the under side of the ECU Top Case. Its nice and snug and securely in there so as not to move around.
On top of the ECU case (when closed) is more velcro that attached my Ostrich to my ECU. I wrap the excess cable and secure it with rubber band (a little ghetto).
You are now ready to pop the ECU in and out of you or your friends rides and help them tune.
I also recommend getting yourself one of the OBD1-->OBD1 jumper harnesses pictured here if you are going to be doing multiple cars. This allows you to put the ECU in a car and refrain from cutting into the stock harness at all. I usually have my wideband powered directly from the ECU power and grounds and feed the WB signal directly into the ECU through this harness. I also have other spots ready with quick connects to log IATs, RPMs, ECTs, MAP & TPS using my Innovate RPM convertor if necessary. I recommend JKOBD for any conversion harness work your need.
Of course this thread is OBD1 specific, but I do have the same exact setup for OBD0 ECUs and you can apply all of this directly to any chippable OBD0 ECU as well."
I started with a stock P72 and chipped it using one of my DIY ECU Chipping Kits
I added a little extra to my ECU in that I use the little two prong headers with jumper covers instead of just making use of left over resistor parts. This allows me to easily switch J1 and J12 depending on if I want to run the ECU in stock form or if I prefer to datalog with Uberdata or Crome.
For J1, most people add a switch, IMO they are bulky and expensive ($2) and you have to run wires and there is always the odd chance your ECU gets bumped and your chipped ECU turns into a stock ECU and all chaos breaks loose. I use this:
You just have to bend the legs out slightly and it fits nicely in the J1 spot.
This also works well for the J12 spot on the OBD1 ECUs. For your Uberdata users, you leave J12 in tact as UD doesnt take advantage of full duplex datalogging like Crome, ECU Control and I'm sure Hondata and Neptune. Again, adding these two prong jumpers makes it easy to switch back and forth without actually installing a switch. Here are a few more pics:
You can easily see how compact and practical these little jumpers are.
In the above picture you can see that I am using a 3M Zif Socket. It is a screw down type and fits the connection of the Moates Ostrich much more easily and securely than the Aries Blue ZIF sockets. If you are using an Ostrich to do your tuning with, I highly recommend this ZIF socket.
For dataloging, I offer 3 types of cables/connections. Personally, I like my USB Datalogging Board. It is small as well (has some cool little LEDs) and fits nicely inside the ECU if you dremel out a spot for it in the case. To secure it inside, I used some male and female velcro. Female velcro is attached to the bottom side of the USB board and the male side is stuck to the under side of the ECU Top Case. Its nice and snug and securely in there so as not to move around.
On top of the ECU case (when closed) is more velcro that attached my Ostrich to my ECU. I wrap the excess cable and secure it with rubber band (a little ghetto).
You are now ready to pop the ECU in and out of you or your friends rides and help them tune.
I also recommend getting yourself one of the OBD1-->OBD1 jumper harnesses pictured here if you are going to be doing multiple cars. This allows you to put the ECU in a car and refrain from cutting into the stock harness at all. I usually have my wideband powered directly from the ECU power and grounds and feed the WB signal directly into the ECU through this harness. I also have other spots ready with quick connects to log IATs, RPMs, ECTs, MAP & TPS using my Innovate RPM convertor if necessary. I recommend JKOBD for any conversion harness work your need.
Of course this thread is OBD1 specific, but I do have the same exact setup for OBD0 ECUs and you can apply all of this directly to any chippable OBD0 ECU as well."